With all of the molecular gastronomy and imported specialty ingredients on the NYC restaurant scene, it is easy to overlook the importance of cooking seasonal food simply and well.
That is where Cookshop comes in.
Cookshop’s menu is locally and seasonally inspired, with a bright and spacious dining room that lends itself as well to brunch as it does to a casual date night. Though the atmosphere is casual, the food is absolutely serious.
Grapefruit brulee with creme fraiche and brown sugar epitomizes seasonal cooking. Grapefruit is covered with brown sugar and broiled until the surface is crispy and sugary; bursting with tart juice, it’s served with creme fraiche and a scattering of fresh mint, which grounds the dish, making it complex and well-rounded. Though there could be a bit more char and crackly crunch on the top of the grapefruit, the combination of sour, sweet, crunchy, and creamy is a great way to start a relaxed brunch.
The griddled cheese sandwich with Cabot cheddar, candied pecans, and Honeycrisp apples is a simple but completely satisfying take on grilled cheese. Crunchy bread, sharp cheese, juicy apples, sweet pecans, and a healthy dose of piquant grainy mustard. Served with a side of lightly dressed greens and relatively forgettable fries, this dish is wholesome and complete.
For something heartier yet, don’t miss the huevos rancheros—they come about as packed as any egg dish could get. A huge ceramic platter, fresh from the oven, comes topped with a thick layer of bubbling molten cheese over perfectly baked eggs. Tender black beans, spiced ranchero sauce (a zesty, tomato based sauce similar to enchilada sauce), and the slight heat of jalapenos hide underneath. Freshly fried tortilla chips offer crunch, bracing pickled onions give freshness, and lime crème fraiche cools the palate. This is easily the standout dish from the entire brunch menu.
Cookshop isn’t trying any fancy tricks, because it doesn’t have to. The prices are reasonable, the service is great, and the food is exceptional. They continuously prove that cooking seasonally and locally results in the best food on the planet.
156 10th Ave.
New York, NY 10011